Even with a new battery, the 2011 535i would only start with a single click when I turned the key in the ignition. I tried starting it again after replacing the starter, and although the motor did turn over a few turns, all I received was a single click. I have since returned the starter to the quality control department, where it has passed three times. Along with it, I changed the ground strap that connects the transmission to the chassis wall and goes below the vehicle. At this moment, I don't know why the vehicle won't start.
Crucial information
Remanufactured starter that is fully functional
fresh battery that packs a powerful punch
Currently, the automobile is sitting with half a tank of gas since the auction dropped off, thanks to the new "earth" engine and ground strap.
To examine if the motor was seized, it was turned by hand.
Vehicle will not start when given a jump start.
Oil is leaking from the engine and the main positive cable at the rear of the alternator is fairly wet.
There are pending generic codes that pertain to voltage that the car is displaying. Here is the list:
The control circuit for the EVAP system switching valve "A" is low - P2419.
The EVAP system leak detection pump control circuit is low (P2401).
The heater control circuit for the P240B EVAP system leak detector pump is low.
Assumption Air Temperature Sensor 1 High Bank 1 Circuit PO113
Battery Operated Air Cooler Temperature Sensor PO07B; 1st Performance/Range Bank
The PO07D is a high-bank 1 charging air cooler temperature sensor circuit.
I/A temperature sensor for intake air (PO111) with one performance bank and one circuit range
I would certainly appreciate any advice you could offer. The only true diagnostic tools I have are the BIMMERLINK app for my phone and OBDLink. Each one pairs with a standard OBD2 Bluetooth port accessory.
Unknown Start/Partial Crank
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beatricerossrg
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026 7:44 am
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leandro_hernandezj
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026 7:44 am
Re: Unknown Start/Partial Crank
Change your Bimmerlink settings so it can record BMW codes. At this point, SAE codes are essentially meaningless. The things you mentioned earlier won't be the root of your problem.
How high is your battery voltage on the partial crank between the posts and the jump points under the hood?
The resistance value between the engine and, say, the lifting hook or the negative jump terminal under the hood has to be measured, right?
Could you please explain what the reman starter quality check means? Maybe it's defective; for example, it might work while unloaded but not when loaded, or it might consume too much power. Has it been tested for its actual draw? Whose turn is it to start? An imposter from an unidentified auto parts store? What about?
What do you mean by "where are you attaching the cables?" because apparently the car won't respond to jump starts. Using the underhood jump points only is your best bet.
Check for clean, non-burned contacts by removing the negative battery terminal from both the battery and the body. While it's turned off, disconnect the B+ cable from the alternator and wipe it down.
Identify the "milkshake" by removing the top of the oil filler.
If you suspect oil in the radiator fluid, remove the cap and inspect it. At the very least, you should check for coolant and oil by draining the oil. Keep in mind that oil sitting on "water" causes the coolant to drain first.
Something quite basic has gone wrong, and fixing it should not be too difficult.
How high is your battery voltage on the partial crank between the posts and the jump points under the hood?
The resistance value between the engine and, say, the lifting hook or the negative jump terminal under the hood has to be measured, right?
Could you please explain what the reman starter quality check means? Maybe it's defective; for example, it might work while unloaded but not when loaded, or it might consume too much power. Has it been tested for its actual draw? Whose turn is it to start? An imposter from an unidentified auto parts store? What about?
What do you mean by "where are you attaching the cables?" because apparently the car won't respond to jump starts. Using the underhood jump points only is your best bet.
Check for clean, non-burned contacts by removing the negative battery terminal from both the battery and the body. While it's turned off, disconnect the B+ cable from the alternator and wipe it down.
Identify the "milkshake" by removing the top of the oil filler.
If you suspect oil in the radiator fluid, remove the cap and inspect it. At the very least, you should check for coolant and oil by draining the oil. Keep in mind that oil sitting on "water" causes the coolant to drain first.
Something quite basic has gone wrong, and fixing it should not be too difficult.
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beatricerossrg
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026 7:44 am
Re: Unknown Start/Partial Crank
-Since I am still learning the ropes and am not very experienced in diagnosing these autos, I have not checked the voltage yet.
-the entrepreneur returned to the store and double-checked the machine's functionality.
-the use of jump posts did not appear to have any effect on getting the vehicle to crank over when trying to start it.
The oil's composition and bearing substance were examined. Additional filter media was also removed.
-the entrepreneur returned to the store and double-checked the machine's functionality.
-the use of jump posts did not appear to have any effect on getting the vehicle to crank over when trying to start it.
The oil's composition and bearing substance were examined. Additional filter media was also removed.
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leandro_hernandezj
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026 7:44 am
Re: Unknown Start/Partial Crank
It is still my recommendation that you use tools like multimeters to verify the other items that I mentioned. On this matter, we require some qualitative data.
One important thing to check is the voltage at the underhood + terminal. Use a multimeter set to volts DC to measure it. Its voltage should be 12.5V+, which is the same as the battery.
Two thick red wires extend from the undercarriage + terminal. Two wires are connected; one powers the alternator directly and the other supplies power to the starter solenoid. There should be no problem with the engine preventing a decent starter from running if you leap at the terminals under the hood, unless:
Inadequate or nonexistent engine support. As a workaround, you can try cranking the engine while connected the black lead of a jumper cable set to the engine lifting hook and the other end to the -jump terminal beneath the hood. Just leave it there if it doesn't seem to be doing anything.
- a starting that isn't up to the task—opinions are still mixed on this one.
- the "start wire" connected to the car's internal CAS unit (terminal 50L) does not have enough voltage. Is this anything that has been evaluated? When cranking, the voltage must be 10V or above.
I would suggest checking to see whether the positive battery wire and the wire leading to the solenoid or starter can be seen. See if it helps by reaching down with a long screwdriver and the necessary insulation; then, connect the battery voltage directly to the solenoid terminal or the wire entering the starter. If this step is too difficult for you, try the one below instead.
The "start wire" provides an easy way to cut down on steps. As seen below, it travels from the CAS through connector X13*10B. You might take a look for corrosion by separating that connector. The black wire labeled "Terminal 50L" enters and exits that connector at pin 9. Pay no attention to the other cables in that area. You may test whether the starter turns the engine by connecting the black wire that runs down to the starter to the underhood + terminal of the battery and jumping the voltage with the connector disconnected. The engine won't turn over because the ignition is off, but that's all you need to test the starter's capabilities. Keep an eye on the X80*1V splice as well; that's where the black wire travels to X13*10B and finally the starter.
At that point, the starter needs to be condemned if the engine still won't turn over reasonably normally. If so, you'll have to investigate the black start wire's voltage drop to determine its cause.
One important thing to check is the voltage at the underhood + terminal. Use a multimeter set to volts DC to measure it. Its voltage should be 12.5V+, which is the same as the battery.
Two thick red wires extend from the undercarriage + terminal. Two wires are connected; one powers the alternator directly and the other supplies power to the starter solenoid. There should be no problem with the engine preventing a decent starter from running if you leap at the terminals under the hood, unless:
Inadequate or nonexistent engine support. As a workaround, you can try cranking the engine while connected the black lead of a jumper cable set to the engine lifting hook and the other end to the -jump terminal beneath the hood. Just leave it there if it doesn't seem to be doing anything.
- a starting that isn't up to the task—opinions are still mixed on this one.
- the "start wire" connected to the car's internal CAS unit (terminal 50L) does not have enough voltage. Is this anything that has been evaluated? When cranking, the voltage must be 10V or above.
I would suggest checking to see whether the positive battery wire and the wire leading to the solenoid or starter can be seen. See if it helps by reaching down with a long screwdriver and the necessary insulation; then, connect the battery voltage directly to the solenoid terminal or the wire entering the starter. If this step is too difficult for you, try the one below instead.
The "start wire" provides an easy way to cut down on steps. As seen below, it travels from the CAS through connector X13*10B. You might take a look for corrosion by separating that connector. The black wire labeled "Terminal 50L" enters and exits that connector at pin 9. Pay no attention to the other cables in that area. You may test whether the starter turns the engine by connecting the black wire that runs down to the starter to the underhood + terminal of the battery and jumping the voltage with the connector disconnected. The engine won't turn over because the ignition is off, but that's all you need to test the starter's capabilities. Keep an eye on the X80*1V splice as well; that's where the black wire travels to X13*10B and finally the starter.
At that point, the starter needs to be condemned if the engine still won't turn over reasonably normally. If so, you'll have to investigate the black start wire's voltage drop to determine its cause.
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leandro_hernandezj
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026 7:44 am
Re: Unknown Start/Partial Crank
Recognized that you may lack the experience of others. Because they have been there previously, most people here know that. Hopefully, you will be able to comply with the given procedures and supply some of the necessary data. That speeds up the process of finding a solution, which is ultimately the goal, isn't it?
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beatricerossrg
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026 7:44 am
Re: Unknown Start/Partial Crank
Your response is really thorough, and I am very grateful. I will do my best to adhere to the instructions and offer an update when I can.