After the new engine is installed, there is no crank or start.

[beatricerossrg]

The engine in my 2006 BMW 530i was just replaced. The vehicle has been experiencing a no crank/no start issue ever after the engine switch.

Things I have already attempted:

Battery registration and new battery
Finished most of the typical fixes recommended after watching many YouTube videos.
Under the assumption that the problem was with the immobilizer or the computer, I purchased a new set of parts from eBay: an ignition switch, key fob, ECM/ECU/DME, and CAS module. I sent it back because, upon receipt, I discovered it was the incorrect style—a regular key rather than the push-in fob.

I was irritated for over a year as the automobile sat. Now I'm at a loss as to how to get it going again.

At the Present Time:

A little over 14V indicates that the battery is charged.
The key fob's battery goes no higher than 2.4V. The door locks won't open with the key fob, therefore I have to open them by hand.
Using the interior switches or any other technique, I am unable to retract the two front windows when I turn or hold the key to the left in the door lock.
The moment I turn the keyless entry key in the ignition:
A key with a line through it (the immobilizer symbol) is shown on the dashboard, which lights up.
There is no electricity to the radio.
An OBD2 scanner can detect power (a LED will illuminate), but it is unable to communicate or receive any data.
The key fob is not stuck; I can remove it—it just doesn't retract correctly when pushed.
Locked steering wheel—I've heard that this might be a source of no crank issues—but I'm still not convinced.

It has been suggested that there may be a "storage mode," however neither its applicability nor the means by which to exit it have been clarified.

Even though I adore my vehicle, everything has gone wrong with it ever after the engine switch. This is currently my sole mode of mobility because my other vehicle recently died. Currently, I'm enjoying bumming rides or riding an electric scooter.

It is clear that many educated individuals are eager to lend a hand after reading through numerous threads on this topic. I've done my best to cover all the important points.

It would be really appreciated if you could provide some guidance on how to begin diagnosing this. Again, all I want is to hear the engine rev.

We appreciate everything in advance!

[ivan.turnerpd]

Instead of relying on hearsay and parts gun fire, it might be wise to conduct some genuine diagnosis.

Are you a member of ISTA or INPA? If you don't have one, you can install the software on a laptop, get a K+D-CAN cable, and then see the car's reports.

been it solely the engine that been replaced? Conversely, was there a particular module?

Please submit the voltage readings taken with a multimeter at the jump spots located under the hood.

Could you please tell me if you are using the original key fob or the one you purchased from fleabay? Was it ever designed to be compatible with your CAS, if the second option is correct?

In case you were wondering, when the key fob doesn't work to unlock the steering column, turn on the starter, and engage the motor, it's because the CAS hasn't authenticated it. Therein is the crux of your problem. What needs to be studied is the reason, which is yet unknown.

So, I'm assuming you have a comfort access key fob that allows you to swap out batteries with ease? I recommend doing that soon; however, it is unrelated to the problem with the key fob's CAS recognition; the battery in it is solely for the fob's remote functions, not for starting the car. An extra component known as a transponder is housed in the key fob; it is powered by the key slot and queries the system.

Does the instrument cluster check control area contain a key when you open the automobile door and enter? Is it a key with a cross on it instead?

Was the engine replacement the only or additional service performed on the vehicle?

Just give me the last seven digits of your VIN, and I'll be able to locate the CAS fuses for you to check as you try to get an ISTA or INPA.

[beatricerossrg]

Additionally, before attempting to swap out the ignition switch, I noticed that all the dashboard lights turned on when I inserted the key fob and pressed the start button, but it did not display the key with the slash through it. Additionally, I could activate the fan and roll up the windows. But there was no power on the radio.

Finally, I will provide a rundown of the trouble messages I encountered before I swapped out the ignition switch.

[ivan.turnerpd]

All right, now we can use ISTA to solve this. You say the "OBD port has power but no data is being communicated". Does that rule out the possibility of INPA or ISTA connecting to the car?

Did the key fob start operating in the car again after you surgically replaced the battery? Like, for example, permitting starts?

OK. If a key has a slash through it, it indicates that the CAS is trying to locate it but has not been successful. Since the ignition won't even turn on, that is likely the reason you won't see any data at the OBD port.

What? Hold on a second. That "ignition switch" you were talking about? Is that referring to the keyhole? Then, didn't things start to deteriorate? It's a CAS function to turn off the radio after validation is complete.

I will find the CAS schematics and inform you of the locations of the power and ground connections for you to inspect.

Very well, that could be useful.

Something else. Does the shift indicator light stay on or go out while the car has been sitting idle with the doors closed and maybe even locked?

When you open the car door and get inside, does the indicator light up? If not, then it's off.

[beatricerossrg]

Furthermore, after I park the car, I usually pull in the key fob, which retracts, and then I remove it. At this moment, the key fob is not stuck in the ignition switch, but it also won't pop out. Even though I can still take the key fob off, the retractable part of the ignition isn't working.

Also, please forgive any poor choice of words on my part. Just got my first car repair job done. My son assisted me, a woman, in installing the engine.

[elena.ruizck]

Sure, I get it. Neither of them will "connect" unless you turn the key to the ignition, which you aren't doing.

Please clarify what "accessory mode" means to you. It was fine to hit the Start/Stop button once, not twice? Getting the key fob case open was a challenge.

Alright, so after the failed attempt to replace the ignition slot and the old one was reinstalled, was the car's behavior identical or did less functions function thereafter?

The shift indicator working properly is commendable. It's making an effort to function because it's a CAS function.

Props for the voltages at the jump points. May I ask what you read?


Okay, I see. So, the old mechanism for the key slot is either jammed or has failed.

Take it easy; everything is going to be well.

You should be familiar with using a multimeter, which is short for digital voltage meter (DVM). A fuse's electrical integrity may be compromised even though it appears to be valid. I would recommend taking the fuse out and using your multimeter in resistance mode to test across the fuse's terminals. This will work sometimes, but not always. Nearly 0.0 ohms should be achieved. If you see OL, it means the fuse has blown.

Using that strategy, check F7 and F15.

Return to Volt DC mode after that. As a testing probe, use your red lead. Locate a solid surface to rest your black lead on. Using the red lead, inspect the fuse slot on both sides. One ought to be nearly voltage-free, while the other ought to be somewhere around 12.4V+?, which is the voltage of a battery. Fill up every fuse hole like that. Include the relevant descriptor in your post and use the actual measured numbers to display the findings.