Changing out the front hub

[priyakk]

There doesn't seem to be any solid advice on how to fasten the hub so that the spindle nut may be torqued to 217 ft lbs. A few videos demonstrate how torque may be supplied to the spindle by engaging the park position of the gearbox. That seems like a chance to hurt yourself from the inside out. Someone else may hold the brake and provide torque as an additional option. My question is whether anyone has found any instructions from Kia on this; it seems logical to me.

[miguel.edwardswr]

The simplest way to keep the transmission's Park pawl in good repair is to use the brake. Given that you probably do not have a device to depress the brake pedal, you can ask a buddy to do it for you. On the other hand, I've read that you can just swap out the wheel and use the friction between the wheels to keep them from spinning as you torque.

The brakes should be used, according to Kia.

[priyakk]

I appreciate your prompt reply. It's likely to be rather tight, so I'll likely use ground friction to loosen it, followed by the brake to torque it down. Following the manufacturer's advise is something I try to avoid.

[aria_dasu]

An additional tool you may use is a long breaker bar or a sturdy pry bar or screwdriver. Loosen the bar until its end touches the ground, then position it across the hub between two wheel studs. If you're trying to torque something down but don't have someone to press the brake, it will keep the wheel from spinning.

[priyakk]

Thank you for the advise. Another question: I've seen mixed advice on whether or not to grease the axle spline ends and, if so, which lubricant (e.g., moly vs. anti-seize) to use. Does anyone have formal word on the matter?

[miguel.edwardswr]

Greasing the outboard (hub side) splines is NOT recommended in the manufacturer handbook. The outboard splines should be clean and dry. A thin layer of moly is the best option for protecting the inboard splines (transaxle side) against corrosion and making insertion easier.

The proper torque must be maintained throughout assembly, which is why greasing the outboard splines is not a good idea. To provide proper bearing preload, dry outboard splines are useful.

[priyakk]

Some details were confusing me, so I appreciate the clarification. Aside from generic work flow and torque parameters, Mitchell1 provides no actual instruction on this operation. I thought taking the hub off would be a major challenge, but all it took was a little wiggle and it fell right apart. It seems like the culprit was a dried red dust material that had been sprayed into the bore, which included the spline. I thought I had to reapply because it was anti-seize. I get your argument about oil and torque interference, but I don't know why that would be an issue here because the shaft isn't tapered. The impacts of hydrodynamic lock, as shown in a helpful video by Timken, include grease being scraped off the spline, being caught in the rear of the bore, and causing torque interference.

The original handbook doesn't advocate Molykote's dry film lubrication, so it's likely overkill. It's pricey and has a high temperature rating.


What about the remaining hub components? A little layer of copper anti-seize applied to the bore and flange surfaces should help with future disassembly, provided that the mechanical fasteners and tone ring are kept dry and clean (no squeeze out, etc.).

[miguel.edwardswr]

Your discovery and investigation of that intriguing issue on your own made my day; I had no intention of attempting to explain it in a forum post. Good news for everyone else: grease is not compressible. You might not feel the engagement you're hoping for, even after applying the torque to the specified degree, because you're actually simply fighting against grease that has filled the gap and is preventing it from escaping.

[priyakk]

Worse worse, if the grease does in fact move, your torque will be significantly reduced. However, torque is of little consequence to other people. I inquired about the torque specification when I visited the dealership to purchase an axle nut. It was beyond the knowledge of the parts man to look it up. Instead of using torque, the mechanic simply staked and tightened them. It has never come loose in the eighteen years that I have been doing it that way.

[miguel.edwardswr]

I remember the Morris Better School of Mechanics (ahem). That much is familiar to me.
Possibly none of them came free, but I do wonder whether he was aware that bearings wear out prematurely from pre-loading them with too much torque. It makes no difference if it's too much or too little, particularly for this kind of portion. 'The touch' isn't something that everyone posess.