Switch to Park in 2017

[omar_evansr]

Move to problems with the park. In the 2020 TSB bulletin, it was resolved. After cleaning the switch, the dealer rebuilt the harness. The gas mileage was 23,000 miles. From time to time, it would reappear. Unless it's doing it often, though, you shouldn't take it to the dealer.
I just took it back to the dealership to get it fixed again; it has 53,000 miles on it. Instead of cleaning the switch, a new TSB bulletin recommends replacing it in 2024. So, they swapped out the switch and harness in 2026; the cost to replace it was $500.


I have a question. The volt has always been precise in the number of electric miles charged. I checked the dashboard and it stated that I had put 53 miles on it, so I unplugged it. At 43 miles, ten miles shorter than what was recorded, the dash
So that I could charge it again the next day, I used up all of the electric miles. It said 54 miles when I did it. The gauge, however, indicates that there have been 44 miles. Once again, it lost ten miles of mileage. This only began after the switch was replaced and the STP issue was resolved. Before the service, everything was accurate, so I phoned the dealer to find out whether anything needed to be reset. I have not heard back from them despite their best efforts to investigate. My charger is accurate in its mileage reporting. The only problem is that every time I charged it, the dashboard was off by ten kilometers.

Does anyone else have this problem or know anything about it?

[petracolemanmu]

You can't put more miles on your automobile. A kilowatt-hour (kWh) is a unit of measurement for electrical power. The distance that the car can drive on its current battery is estimated by looking at its previous drive history and assuming that several factors such as weather, driving style, topography, climate usage, Mercury in the second house, and so on would be relatively constant. This is how the mileage reported on the dashboard is determined.

The wall power counter will likewise display kWh drawn, not miles, so I don't get why you're comparing that to the dashboard. I should mention that the charging process isn't perfect; in fact, around 10% of it is lost as heat. Consequently, the energy that is drawn out is somewhat greater than the energy that is stored.

[omar_evansr]

My charger has always been precise; but, after having the switch replaced, it suddenly stopped working properly, indicating that the dash was inaccurate by exactly 10 miles. I can guarantee you that my charger is precise. It will display 54 miles of electric charge when the charger is fully charged. Ten miles less, according to the dashboard. It appears that the dash is no longer correct! Why? Following the replacement of the switch.

[petracolemanmu]

The car's recent drive history could have been erased when the dealer disconnected the 12V battery. Keep in mind that this is all a coincidence and that the charger has no idea how efficient your car is. If you want to see how the numbers change, try driving harder on gas or in cold weather.

Oh, I see. I'm joking.


Perhaps the automobile lost its most recent driving history when the dealer unplugged the 12V battery.

Keep in mind, though, that what you said is purely coincidental. Your car's efficiency level is something the charger just cannot determine. If you want to see how the figures change, try driving harder on gas or in subzero temperatures.

[omar_evansr]

Thank you for getting back to me. I see what you're saying, but I need to explain it more in order for you to grasp it. Here's how the battery charging works: in the summer I get 37 miles of range, which is much more than in the winter. I'll be able to provide more details with pictures later on, but for now I'm kind of busy with something else. For you to grasp this, I'll need to provide further details. It makes sense to me. The process of charging a battery. Thankfully, my range increases to 37 miles in the summer from nothing in the cold. The warmer months see a greater variation.

I can provide a more detailed explanation with the use of photos. Actually, not at the moment. Feeling somewhat occupied with another task. I am grateful for your reply.

[omar_evansr]

After all the effort that was done, it makes me think something has to be reset.


Many dealerships, in my experience, are completely uninformed when it comes to electric vehicle repair. Guess what?
Some of them will not even bother to assist you in getting your vehicle fixed. Their official stance is that they are unsure of the problem. Alternatively, they were unable to replicate the issue. Firsthand knowledge tells me. Keep a 2018 Bolt as well. As for the physical labor, we were assaulted by a woman. I took it to the body shop, but the side sensor wouldn't stop beeping, as if it were a Jeepwrangler. The body shop finally given up trying. The second dealership I took it to, which was closer to my home, spent five hours on the phone with me and ultimately determined that they couldn't reproduce the issue. I paid for the diagnostic service out of pocket. Lol. I informed them that you were not even the driver. Upon exiting the lot, it began to detect an object on the vehicle's side. I brought it back to the store where we purchased it. They worked with GM and had it for around one month. It turned out that when they fitted the bumper, the body shop forgot to reattach the foil plate.
It is absolutely insane that some dealership repair companies don't even bother to try them on. What if my automobile has foil plates? How would I detect them? I won't let them disassemble it unless I supervise closely.

I felt, with the help of this intelligent community, I must not be alone in experiencing this issue. By the way, I had no intention of standing over the man who disassembled the shifter in order to swap out the switch.
The only EV expert at this dealership has yet to get out to my service technician, so I'm still waiting for him to figure out what it may be. Plus one more thing. Whoever turned the switch wasn't the EV man.